Monday 27 December 2010

Thunder Road


One of the things I enjoy while travelling is meeting and talking to people. The more people share their stories, the more I realize there are so many ways to live life and to approach things. 

During my trip to Mumbai, I have met some very interesting people. Travelers, people with family, religious people, people who wanted to just drink and be merry, people who smile a lot etc. 

One of the most intriguing people I met is Rob. Apart from his many talents, it is his intricate life and the messy beauty of it which intrigues me. His passion for his work and hobbies is overflowing. Yet, he is a tortured soul, an artist, who is perhaps lost in himself and contributes to the confusion around him. 

People meet and part ways. And then, nothing happens. 

Meeting Rob has made me think a lot about my life. 


Reflections. 


As he lives his life, I see in his story what I am missing in mine. I can see what I should and should not do from his stories. If cause and effect do correlate, then I hope that in my journey, clarity comes sooner than for Rob.  

That is the thing about some people. They remind us with their words and their way of life, about our own, the best of it and the worst of it. It is like listening to Thunder Road or Big Eyed Fish. Rob makes me think a lot, of late, of what I truly aspire to achieve in the next year or in the coming months. 

As with most strangers who cross paths, I wonder if I will ever see Rob again. In any case, one of his stories is the inspiration for my latest painting, The Smoking Man in Mumbai. And perhaps, his journey as was told to me, will continue to inspire me in ways I don't yet know.


We crossed paths. 

Wednesday 15 December 2010

Mumbai, Second Time Around

A month after my first trip, I returned to Mumbai. This time around, circumstances were a little different. So here we go...some stories.

The weather was a lot cooler. This time I have brought enough clothes! In fact, in my attempt to slowly get rid of all the things in my apartment, I packed a full big suitcase of clothes to give away. The plan was to bring the suitcase to GOONJ which has a collection centre close to the Westin, where I was booked into again by AMEX.

So many things happened, so many people during those 10 days, I shall try to recapture the highlights. Firstly, I have to say, I didn't expect to enjoy what I was working on so much.

A CONVERT
From Mumbai episodes
View from My Hotel Room
The whole project of offshoring to India challenges me in a way that I like. On top of that, I have to admit that our team in Mumbai impresses me a lot. Throughout my trip, most people I talk to complain about their counterparts or vendors in India. My experience with my colleagues have been different. This trip has really made me see the potential India has. If I was sceptical about offshoring, I am now a convert, a believer.







PRIVILEGED AND HUMBLED

One of my colleagues whom I have the privilege to work closely with is V. One evening, V suggested that I join his wife and him for seafood in Juhu. Since I have also been invited by Hay to visit the school where he volunteers, we decided to combine the visit and dinner.

Hay volunteers at the St Dominic Savio Boys Home two to three times a week. I noticed he left early those days during my first visit. So he started telling me about the home and showed me videos. I know most people would hesitate donating money for sponsorship for fear of scams. I am one of those people. So this chance to meet someone whom I can trust who is also hands-on in teaching at the school, is golden.
 
V and I left before 6pm by rickshaw to the school. I enjoyed that ride a lot. We past some interesting streets with V giving me a local perspective of it.

When we arrived at St Dominic's, we were led into a music room by Hay. There they were, the boys aged from 6 to 16. It was rather funny that the boys were clearly excited to see "a girl", and a small Asian one at that!
I think I caught some of the teenage boys blush.

Night ride on the Trishaw
We sat in a corner and Hay introduced the boys one-by-one. I was to find out which of the boys I was going to sponsor when Hay calls out his name. He, in return, should not know about the sponsorship. This boy is 13 and looked very athletic. He is small framed but I was told, he is very talented in music and does well academically.

After the round of introduction, V and I were treated to some songs the boys have rehearsed for Christmas. When they finished, they asked if they could do more. Such enthusiasm! Hay asked me to sing a song for the boys. They were extremely delighted. So I obliged. But what can someone who listens to old jazz share with a bunch of wide-eyed young boys and in a religious school?

I never meant "Somewhere Over The Rainbow" more than I did before those boys that evening. As I looked into their youthful faces, full of hope, where in the background were old music instruments, I truly wish that "and the dreams that they dare to dream really will come true".

Leaving the school that night, I felt extremely privileged and humbled. Privileged that I am able to contribute, however insignificantly, to that little boy's life. Humbled, by the enthusiasm the boys and Hay had shown me. Sometimes we worry, we complain...and yet, we are not the ones with the most valid reasons to do so.

Seafood @ JUHU
On a lighter and spicier note, the seafood dinner that evening was fantastic. We arrived at the restaurant, Gazali, after being caught in traffic for a long long time. Friday nights in Mumbai and especially in a place like Juhu, are happening. V's wife was ever so sweet and patient. She ordered some really good food. I am not one who is shy about eating with my hands. If only my fingers are as dexterous when it comes to the piano! With seafood, I process them like a pro. :-)

After dinner, we drove around as the V and Hay wanted to show me the homes of famous Bollywood stars. We took a short stop at Naturale ice-cream. Here we were, in front of Naturale where many middle class local families have their ice-creams. In contrast, you see just outside on the same street, a group of people who live on the street.  

I simply could not eat anymore. So V bought me Paan instead. Now if there is anything that I would not ever eat again, it is Paan. For Peranakan people, this is literally eating Sireh!

Later in the evening, V, his wife and I took a rickshaw ride where they dropped me at the hotel. It was hillarious to hear the loud motor revving as we approached the hotel lobby entrance. The security guards reluctantly allowed us in as I was a familiar looking guest, drawing some attention from people within the hotel.


BLING BLING

I fell asleep immediately despite my stomach wanting to explode with all that seafood. It was a long enjoyable day.

The next morning, I had breakfast with some people at the restaurant. I did this as a change from the first trip. I simply had enough of eating alone. So I changed my approach and mingled with different people this time around. My stomach was not feeling very well as I tried to concentrate on the conversation about the holy land and the Haifa fires. My companions were from Israel. 


I went back to my room and tried to find a youtube video on how to wear a saree. Later that afternoon, I was to go downsouth to meet a lady friend who has invited me to a relative's wedding reception. At her suggestion, I was to wear a saree.

The day prior, I told my lady colleagues about the need for a presentable saree. The girls were very excited! I sat and listened as they debated about what sort of wedding I had been invited to. Now, if anyone ever doubted women's ability to rational conclusions, they should sit with these girls as they deduced what colour the saree should be from the surname of my lady friend.

The girls took me to a shop with a good variety of sarees. We had the Choli altered for me. As I was about to leave the shop, the girls told me that I was missing the most important element of the whole "do". It was the "bling bling"! In fact, if the type of wedding I was to attend is what they imagined, I would need a lot of bling bling. So we went to a counter with a very impressive selection of bangles, earrings and necklaces. Gold, red, purple, green, blue...I love the colours! We finally agreed on a set for DKK200. Beautiful...now if they only weigh less...

Back at the hotel on that Saturday morning, I was trying to put together my "ensemble". That was when I found out that the Choli did not fit at all! I was already feeling a mild gastric. After soaking in the hot tub, I went to the lobby and asked for some medication. Then I took a short walk to Oberoi Mall to find a new Choli. Due to the growing pain in my abdomen, I broke my own shopping record.

Twenty five minutes. That was the time I used to buy a choli and walked back to the hotel. I decided to get some help from the hotel staff. A sweet lady came to my room and made me really pretty. I was almost shocked to see myself in the mirror.  :-) Apart from the annoying pain I was trying to conceal, When we got to the lobby, we smiled at each other as the men stared.

I was hailed a taxi. I showed the taxi driver the address I was provided by email. He spoke only Hindi. So I held the piece of paper in front of him and read the address. He nodded and said "chowpatty" and then drove on.

Amidst the heavy Saturday traffic, I tried to distract myself from the pain by thinking about some interesting people I have been meeting there in Mumbai. About 45 minutes later, the driver stopped and signaled that we have arrived. To my horror, we were in front of Juhu beach. From my recollection of the maps, Juhu was nowhere near our intended destination. Obviously, we had a language problem. So I called my friend and asked if she could talk to the taxi driver. As it turned out, he blamed the hotel for telling him to drive me to Juhu.   

It occurred to me then that the driver could not read and that "chowpatty" means beach. So we drove for another hour. During that journey, I took more anti-acid pills and the driver got agitated. He stopped somewhere in traffic and turned around. He demanded double the amount of what we agreed. That much, I understood. Not knowing where I was and seeing that there was no way I could find another taxi, I kept quiet and politely asked him to drive on.

After much dispute, the angry driver drove off and dropped me in front of a hospital. As it turned out, my lady friend's family owns that hospital from which that street derives its name.

We were promptly driven to the Taj Mahal hotel. The security within the hotel was strict. It truly reminded me of a scene from colonial times. We sat by the window and watched a navy parade across the street by the Gate of Bombay. Shortly after, we were welcomed by the bride's mother. I was told that she is a royal princess of one of the states. The newly weds were very beautiful. The women wore sparkly jewelleries and the men spoke with great confidence. As it turned out, both families were from the elite. I observed that even the little children had a lot of practice as they order the waiters around. I had an interesting time talking to some of the guests. I suppose, people got curious.  

I had to leave together with my friend. It took me another hour to get back to the hotel.    




I WAS A SICK SICK WOMAN
Saree


Came Sunday morning, the pain was getting worse. I headed for the lobby and asked for more pills. The sound of the Sunday band playing from the hotel restaurant distracted me. So I decided to have lunch there and watch them play. Nothing fancy but some oldies from the 60s. The band recognized me from the last trip, as I sang with them. They asked me to join them but I was really not up to it. So I watched.
A couple of hours later, I found myself struggling with chest pains in my room. So I called for the doctor. Before you shower me with sympathy, let me say, had this not happened, I would have been deprived of a chance to witness kindness in Mumbai.

The hotel arranged for a doctor who was the most soft-spoken lady, and surprised me with her willingness to prescribe the many types of medication. After she left, the hotel sent someone to get me the prescribed medication. I was asked to go sit outdoor at the restaurant to get some fresh air. You would be surprised but there is fresh air in that area where the Arrey milk colony is. I was most touched when one of the waiters I know, came with some warm water and my medication. Fuzzy feeling.... :-)

Then, the service staff ordered me some food. Following this evening, everytime I call the service desk, the lady would ask if I was feeling better. Tell me if this is good customer service or compassion!

GRATITUDE LOST AND FOUND
Came Monday morning, I felt terrific and was heading to work when I discovered I have lost my cardholder. This meant I lost my credit cards and danish work visa ID. Being me, I sat down and drew a mindmap. 
I listed all the places where it could be, I listed the channels of communication and the back-up plans. 

After calling the office to delegate some tasks, I sat with my computer and work through my check list. The reception, the taxi from Saturday, the banks, the HR department, the danish embassy, Oberoi Mall. I worked my list only to increasingly write-off one avenue after another.

The danish embassy told me that I had to apply for a reentry permit that would cost DKK1600 and up to two weeks to process. I cannot deny I was quite upset. I pay taxes like a Dane for the last 7 years, I never got my education paid for like a Dane and when it comes to situation like this, I am no better than a foreigner who has never been to Denmark. Anyway, such is the danish government's take on foreigners. I had also to make a police report in order to kickstart this application.

As I was waiting at the reception, the hotel GM passed by and offered help in the form of the Security Manager, who was to escort me to the police station.  They took a short statement from me and then I was driven to the police station where I sat for two minutes. We left with a piece of template to file the report. Connections count, obviously. Later, this manager returned to me with a police report filed. This was the time when I saw the real meaning of "jugaad ho jayega". A concept that I, as an Asian, is familiar with.


Prayer Card from The Israeli friend
I was already very impressed by the hotel staff. The next day, as I was back at work, they surprised me further. The Security team had backtracked and called the taxi driver. They convinced him to bring his vehicle and they searched it. Back in the car boot, they found all my cards! Can you believe my luck? Can you believe the dedication of the people at the Westin Hotel?

Last week, I packed some danish cookies and chocolates and sent them to the Westin Hotel staff. Gratitude. That is what I have for these people.  

When some people think of Mumbai, they think pollution, noise, harassment and slums. I think all of that but more so, the care people have shown me. You may say that it was because I was a guest at a hotel. But truly, you as I have, must realise that the care shown to me need not had been. Yet, it was.